this post contains affiliate links.
Like most stained glass artists, I’m a glass hoarder. I hate letting any little scrap go to waste. I sort larger scraps by color, and any small bits go into a five-gallon bucket, with the hope that maybe, just maybe, someday I’ll find the time to do something with them.
Last spring, inspiration finally hit, and I dove headfirst into the world of garden mosaics. I spent the summer creating mosaics on bricks salvaged from my woods. I based my creations on plants in my garden so that the finished mosaic could serve as a plant marker of sorts.
My brick mosaics ended up being a hit on social media, and it’s high time I finally compose a comprehensive post on my supplies, and share some tips I’ve learned along the way.
Before getting into everything, I just want to stress the fact that you don’t have to be an artist to do these. You don’t have to create a family heirloom that lasts hundreds of years. Your first one might not look exactly how you’re envisioning, BUT you should do it anyway. Making art is fun, it’s about the process! So, consider this your sign to stop making excuses and make a mosaic instead.
Supplies
- Brick (New, old, doesn’t matter. Just try to choose one with a flat surface.)
- Construction adhesive of choice. (I like Liquid Nails Fuze It.)
- Glass cutter
- Grout (Make sure your label says for outdoor use)
- Grout float
- Grozing pliers
- Safety glasses
- Sponge
- Stained glass scraps
- Toothpicks
- Disposable rubber gloves
- Wheeled nippers
I have everything you need, plus more, linked here – making mosaics, a shopping list!
Making a brick mosaic for your garden.
Of course you can create a mosiac on nearly any surface but for these I’m using bricks I found in my woods. I don’t do anything fancy to prepare them, just a nice little scrub with soap and water. The most important thing here, before we get started is that your surface is clean and dry.
Now it’s time for the fun part – breaking glass! Put your safety glasses on now or else. I promise, you do not want glass in your eye. Use a glass cutter to score the glass, creating a weak point from which you can then use the grozier pliers to snap away pieces until the desired shape is created. Wheeled nippers are great for nibbling off small pieces as well.
Keep in mind that cutting glass isn’t anything like cutting construction paper. There’s a bit of a learning curve and even after you’ve figured that all out, it can still have a mind of it’s own. Not telling you that to scare you, just to prepare you to be ready to experiment and play.
If you’re feeling hesitant, I recommend checking out a video on the basics of cutting glass. Delphi has a fantastic video on this called How to Cut Glass – The Basics.
Prioritize the main image/ inspiration for the piece, cutting and gluing those pieces down first to create the focal point. Once that’s done, then I work on the background.
Although there are many different options out there for how to adhere your mosaic pieces to the substrate, my personal preference is Liquid Nails Fuze It. (Don’t forget a caulk gun if you decide to go this route.) It can be messy, but using a toothpick to help spread the adhesive proves be quite helpful.
After you let that dry for the time recommended on your product label, it’s time to grout.
I prefer to mix my own grout from a large bag. Hey, I’m a gal renovating a house, I’ve got grout! But if that’s not you, pre-mixed grouts are also available. Make sure to double-check that what you choose is for outdoor use if your mosaic is meant for the garden. Read the grout instructions over thoroughly before diving in. It’s not a hard process; it might even be my favorite part, but it does require precise measurements. Let your grout set for the amount of time recommended by the manufacturer, and then wipe off the excess and clean the glass pieces using a damp sponge. DAMP. Not wet. We don’t want to saturate the grout.
Allow your grout to dry completely, and then it’s time to move your masterpiece outdoors!
Optional, but something I also do – a grout sealer! I don’t truly know if it’s necessary; some grouts even claim you won’t need one. Personally, I feel best making sure my grout is sealed. I’ve been using Tilelab’s penetrating grout and tile sealer. I spray it on the mosaic liberally, even applying product to the side of the brick. You’ll notice it makes your grout appear wet. After that dries, I spray again. This time around, the grout shouldn’t look as wet, and that’s how you know it’s working. Unlike working on an actual tile floor, I don’t bother buffing the grout sealer off the glass. It doesn’t affect the appearance.
Where to find glass scraps? My number one suggestion is Facebook Marketplace. Lots of stained glass artists unload scraps on Marketplace for cheap or even free. This is probably the most effective way to get a large amount of variety. Aside from that, Michaels and other craft stores are likely to carry mosaic supplies. I also have some linked in my mosaic making supply list. There are even precut petal options out there if you’re not feeling brave enough to make your own shapes.
Do these mosaics last? Won’t they break? What about snow? All questions I received that fall in the same category. The honest answer is nobody knows. I chose an adhesive that checked off all my main concerns for something made to live outdoors year-round in Ohio. They survived their first winter season outdoors and still look just as good as when I put them out there. (It was a cold and snowy one, let me tell you!) I don’t know that they’ll last forever, but I can tell you that even if they only lasted a few months, it was worth it!
Even if I went the sure thing, super permanent route of mortar, there would still be a chance for ‘failure’. Nothing wrong with experimenting!
Aren’t they sharp? Glass is sharp, yes, but the sharp edges are contained within the grout.
Aren’t you worried about slipping? Not at all. The mosaics are not slippery in the least. Grout between many small pieces of glass is giving you extra traction. The other plain bricks in my garden walkway tend to be more slippery than the mosaics.
Dyeing your grout? Since my plan was always to insert the bricks with mosaics back into my garden path I wanted them to match as best as possible. I purchased pigment powder that I mix in with my grout to achieve a brick-like color. I use the color “wine red” but it also comes in a bunch of other colors so you can get real funky with it! (For reference, I bought 4oz, and I’ve barely made a dent in it with all the mosaics I’ve made.)
Have fun! Make sure to share some pictures with me over on my facebook page if you decide to make one of your own.
PS. If you’d like a printed copy of these instructions, my tutorial is featured in the spring edition of In Her Garden! Alternatively, if you like to watch videos, I’ve shared quite a few reels on my mosaics. Here’s a list of some of them: clematis mosaic part 1 & pt. 2, coreopsis mosaic part 1 & part 2, hummingbird & hibiscus mosaic part 1 & part 2.